The estimated setup time for a ca. 4m^2 area of mold is 8 hours to prepare with the layup and vacuum. Additionally, vacuum checkup must be performed.
The recommended weave for the fibreglass to be used is 2x2 twirl. This allows for complex curves and sharp ridges to be made from cut off strips from the roll. Additionally, cutting the material at 45° will increase its flexibility by 25-30%.
For the vacuum within the mold, the recommended pressure should be 27 - 29 inches of mercury. To measure this, a vacuum gauge is to be used, which will cost ca. $25.
The estimated time for the epoxy and hardener mixture to fully be absorbed into the material will take from 45 minutes to 1 hour.
The recommended available resin is MGS 135 resin, which can be mixed with a hardener to give it a longer pot life.
If the mold is not sealed properly, the envelope could crush and collapse onto the mold.
The spiral wrapping (is this what he meant?) to be used as the resin feed line is recommended, as it offers much greater versatility compared to other methods.
In order to ensure a good finish of the part i.e. a good paint job for the aerobody, an epoxy primer should be used in the mold instead of a gel coat. This will reduce the weight exponentially and also allow for the painters to easily paint the car.
The core material to be used should be DIAB - Divinycell H60, however it needs to be cut to fit to size and does not need to be everywhere in the mold.
There should be 4 layers of fibreglass, however other numbers are possible dependent on the shape of the car.
It is very feasible to include multiple complex components of the aerobody into one single mold.
To add lips and tongues for the trunks and the doors, dimensional wax can be used. They come in sheets of 1-6mm thick, and can be molded using heat to fit the specifications.
For the windshield, a company called ? can be contacted.