Enclosure Manufacturing Procedure (WORK IN-PROGRESS)

Owned by Nicole Choe
Last updated: Mar 16, 2024
3 min read

Epoxy:

  • 3M structural adhesive left underneath the cabinet (we have 6, we need 2)

    • The mix ratio is 2:1 and provides 20 minutes of work-life, allowing time to adjust for the desired fit prior to curing. This adhesive reaches handling strength in approximately two hours and is fully cured in 24 hours at 72 °F (22 °C).

    • To get rid of extra epoxy, heat up a soldering iron up to 150 degrees celcius, and use rubbing alcohol

  • Make sure the gun matches, push and pull the tabs

  • Use quadro static mix nozzle (we have 5, we need 2)

  • It is recommended to use a new tip or mixer nozzle for each cartridge

  • MAKE SURE TO TILT UPWARDS AND TRY TO GLUE

  • very viscious

Gasket:

  • cut to-size

  • not a priority

Notes:

  • Do not epoxy any of the 3D prints; we will validate them after

Day 1:

  1. Bring enclosure frame and panels to the machine shop

  2. Grab 3M structural epoxy from underneath chemical cabinet (20 minute shell life)

  3. Clamping width pieces: should be straight forward because there are holes in the fibre-glass due to vent + fan holders. Orient the box so there is room on the sides to clamp

  4. Clamping length pieces: ~3.5cm from the top of the steel frame to the top of the fibre-glass. Grab the metal clamps from the drawer in the bay and clamp the top. To ensure the bottom is flush grab something heavy and place along the bottom and sides

  5. Wait for epoxy to dry

  6. Cut adhesive gasket by 1/2 to make it 1/4 inch thick, then epoxy to lid, clamp, and let dry for 24 hours (ask Michael if waiting for 24 hours is necessary) before proceeding

Day 2:

  1. Clamping bottom panel: put something heavy (with one object towards the middle that does NOT move) to keep it more steady. Ensure M4 bolts are put through the holes of the enclosure frame and the panels to make sure everything lines up

  2. Measure the distance and ensure the two side-pieces of the lid are at the appropriate length away from the edges

  3. Measure the distance between the edges with calipers and ensure it is the same alongside the entire edge. Mark edge of fiberglass with a pen/marker

  4. Use the middle panel to act as a validation check and ensure there is enough space for it to fit

  1. Apply epoxy, and put something heavy on the edges to weigh the panel down

  2. Finish machining fixtures on the lid of the enclosure for impounding (ask Shem for status on that)

 

Things to think about:

  • have a partial 3D printed baffle with length 15mm instead of 5mm to make sure holes align at the right spots for baffle

  • assemble all 4 side panels first so you can clamp from the bottom BEFORE gluing in the bottom piece and weighing it down with books/something heavy

  • flip the enclosure upside-down when gluing the side lid panels so gravity can due its work. Q: how to make sure this lines up correctly?

  • If it takes 24 hours to set the panels - you would have to wait between each step (length, width, etc.)

  • NEED TO FIND OUT WHERE TO ORIENT CLAMPS - stability

  • make sure enclosure feet fit to Chassis, test screwing-in bat box to enclosure

 

Resources:

Epoxy Datasheet: https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/LePage-Speed-Set-Professional-Epoxy-TDS